The South of Fifth neighborhood of South Beach (known to locals as SoFi), it can be argued, is the more refined area of Miami Beach. Less glitz, more substance.
Cleo,, the new Eastern Mediterranean restaurant led by celebrated Executive Chef Camila Olarte, fits into that SoFi culture. Its understated elegance inside the renovated Balfour Hotel perfectly complements the Balfour’s charm, while the menu – deeply rooted in the culinary traditions of Greece and Lebanon while embracing the bounty of Florida’s coast – shows off the best of South Florida’s culinary cultures.
“A menu that reflects the rhythm of the seasons,’’ Olarte told me. “Cleo allowed me to dive into a cuisine I deeply respect and wanted to further explore. It was also a chance to take a leap in my career, apply everything I learned during my time with Thomas Keller Restaurant Group (of French Laundry fame) and step into a larger leadership role. What made it even more special was joining a team of passionate, empowered women who bring heart and excellence to everything they do.’’
Indeed. From its house-baked jou jou bread to its signature kabobs, fresh vegetables, bold spreads and salads, Cleo’s menu is a showcase of generous and vibrant dishes, many of which are meant for sharing.
Chef Camila Olarte (Cleo)
“Sharing food is such a big part of my culture,’’ said Olarte, who grew up cooking with her mothers and sisters in Bogota, Colombia. “It creates an energy at the table that is communal, joyful and intimate. By offering share plates, we invite guests to experience the meal the way it is meant to be – passed around, tasted together and talked about in the moment.
“My cooking philosophy is rooted in structure, humility and intention. I believe in leading with discipline and respect for the craft, while always remembering that, at the end of the day, the food has to be delicious.’’
Olarte doesn’t disappoint. The Yellowfin Tuna TarTare, for example, is on point as an appetizer, and the Cigars with spiced ground lamb, labneh and feta cheese are a great way to begin the sharing menu.
“They are crispy, savory and have just the right amount of heat. And when you dip them into the creamy, tangy labneh, it’s a perfect bite.
“I also really love our Muhammara Dip. It brings a beautiful sweetness from the roasted red peppers and pomegranate molasses, along with richness from the walnuts. It adds a unique contrast to the more acidic or savory dips on the table, helping to balance out the flavors and textures across the board. It is the kind of dish that surprises people. It’s not always the most familiar, but once they taste it, it becomes a favorite.’’
The Wagyu Beef Ribeye is a “must have’’ for carnivores, while the Grilled Mediterranean Octopus with green chermoula, harissa aioli, purple watercress is another ideal shareable. Want Vegan? Don’t pass on the Fried Cauliflower with garlic lemon pepper, tomato salsa and parsley gremolata.
Baklawa Tower
As a finale, the Baklawa Tower, with pistachio gelato and cream, might be the best dessert in South Florida. It’s a standout in what Olarte wants guests to remember from their Cleo experience.
“I want guests to remember the freshness and brightness of the food, and the warmth of the hospitality,’’ she said. “I hope they leave feeling nourished physically and emotionally.’’
Feature Photo Courtesy of Cleo