“As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture….
- Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast
Who knew salt-water bivalve molluscs could tell such delicious stories? Never heard of salt-water bivalve molluscs? They’re better known as “oysters,’’ whose history can be traced as far back as 10,000 years.
I bet even Hemingway didn’t know that fact. But what Papa did know was that he liked oysters. And although “A Moveable Feast’’ are tales of his times in 1920s Paris, Hemingway, no doubt, spent much of his legendary adult life eating oysters in Key West, just a few hours south of where Jordan Stilley plies his trade as executive chef at City Oyster & Sushi Bar in Delray Beach.
As Hemingway brought depth to simple sentences, Stilley brings depth to the simple (or not-so simple) oyster. So much so that Virginia-based Rappahannock Oyster Company has introduced a new line of oysters, “The Fishing Chef,” that are farmed, harvested, and served exclusively at City Oyster.
“I grew up in the seafood business,’’ said Stilley, a native of Boca Raton. “My father has seafood restaurants.We were always seasonally changing menus that we knew worked at specific times of year.’’
Enter the “Fishing Chef,’’ oyster.
“Fishing Chef oysters are Virginia oysters that traditionally are very mild,’’ Stilley said. “They come from far outside of the (Chesapeake) Bay, where the water is pretty tepid year round, so you get a pretty consistent product. That’s why it was chosen as our ‘branded’ oyster.’’
Stilley, who has been chef at City Oyster parent Big Time Restaurant Group for the past 11 years – five at City Oyster – said he went through at least 15 different kinds of oysters before he found the proper oyster to brand as the “Fishing Chef.’’
“Rappahannock is always growing different varieties of oysters and buying up different parts of the Bay to find different flavor profiles,’’ Stilley said. “It’s all about current, clarity and solidity. Take a quarter turn around the basin and you’ll find a completely different flavor profile than a half-mile away.
“I appreciate oysters from all over. I like PEI (Prince Edward Island) oysters and Masschussetts oysters. I chose this (Rappahannock River) oyster because I like its solidity and texture. And It has good size that produces consistent product year round.’’
In addition to the “Farming Chef’’ oyster and Long Island Blue Point oyster – each a staple of the City Oyster lineup, the offerings often includes the salty and sweet Queen’s Cup (my favorite) from Prince Edward Island; meaty Fat Dog (New Hampshire) and the dark brown Thunder Cove (PEI).
Particularly popular during City Oyster’s Happy Hour, the oysters are offered individually or on trays of up to 12.
A list of the daily oysters selections is easily seen on a chalkboard near City Oyster’s back wall And in case you’re wondering, in addition to oysters, the restaurant has an outstanding menu that includes seafood, steak, some great sushi, and pasta. City’s Oyster’s Weekend Brunch is among the more popular brunches in Palm Beach County.
But it all begins with the oysters. Papa would be proud.
Feature Photo Credit: In House Creative