Justin Baldwin’s slice of paradise is a 15-mile drive down Chimney Rock Road in the middle of Central California. Welcome to JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery, founded in 1981 by Baldwin, a Wall Street banker turned vintner whose passion for golf is only exceeded by his passion for wine.
That passion shows on every inch of the 320-acre acre estate, an approximate 40-minute drive from downtown Paso Robles. From its vineyards that provide grapes for highly-acclaimed Bordeaux-style blends to JUST Inn and Chateau to the Michelin-star Restaurant at JUSTIN, the estate is as calming and tasteful as a glass of 2019 JUSTIN Isosceles.
“When I bought the land, planted the vines and started making wine, there were zero improvements on the property – just 320 acres of dry farm land,’’ said Baldwin, who recently hosted a six-course wine dinner at Diplomat Prime steakhouse in Hollywood, FL.
Baldwin liked the land for its plant-accessible calcium carbonate, the principal chemical component of limestone, typically from decayed limestone outcroppings. That soil is prevalent in the most famous wine regions of France, but only in the Central region of California. The first vines he planted by hand are still producing grapes that create the best-selling Cabernet Sauvignon in the U.S. and beyond.
“The crowning achievement of limestone is that it’s very absorbent,’’ Baldwin said. “Rainfall forces the vine downs into the soil. They latch on to the limestone limestone and suck the water out of the soil.
“And we are at 2,000 feet with no irrigation. For four or five months a year, we don’t get any rain at all. So, lack of water, limestone and the third ingredient – elevation – gives us very small fruit; That’s the best thing you can have. The flavor and color (of wine) come from the skin of the grape. You want small fruit, not big, lushy grapes.’’
Baldwin built and opened the JUST Inn in 1991. He followed 10 years later with the Chateau, a 12,000 square-foot mansion that features four bedrooms, eight baths, gourmet kitchen and in-residence chef and private concierge. William Randolph Hearst, whose legendary Hearst Castle sits only an hour away, would have been envious
The Inn features three suites (Isosceles, Justification and Savant) as well the Vintner’s Villa that includes a full kitchen. The Villa is surrounded by the vineyards and winery.
“Our wine club members get first choice, so often we are booked out months for the high season (Fall and Spring),’’ Balwin said. “You can always place your name on a Wait List, which I encourage, as peoples’ plans often change. If you can be flexible, you might be rewarded.’’
Each of the suites and Villa are themed to different wine regions, but the decor, Baldwin said, is kept to a relaxing, refined palate.
“It’s a place for our wholesale and retail customers to come and experience real time and a great representative of our commitment to excellence.’’
The Restaurant at JUSTIN earlier this month received a Michelin Star as a part of the 2022 Michelin Guide California. It also received a Michelin Green Star for its sustainability practices.
Led by Executive Chef Rachel Haggstrom, The Restaurant at JUSTIN showcases the ultimate California food and wine experience with dishes created from the local ingredients. The dinner experience at JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery features a four-course prix fixe menu, complemented with pairings from JUSTIN’s wines and sweeping views of the vineyards.
Baldwin sold the vineyards and winery to Lynda and Stewart Resnick owners of the Wonderful Company (Fiji Water, Teleflora, POM Juice) in 2011, but has remained the face of the company, just as the company he founded has been the face of Central California’s wine region for more than 30 years. In 2001, for example, JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery was awarded the No. 5 spot on the Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines of the World.
“Up to then, no Paso winery was ever named to the coveted top 10 of the 100 wines,’’ Baldwin said. “In 1994 we won the Pichon Lalande Trophy at the London International Wine Competition for World’s Best Blended Wine. Heads turned and serious wine reviewers/consumers started tracking us and the area.’’
In 2017, Wine Enthusiast named JUSTIN the Best American Winery of the Year (out of 15,000 US wineries).
“Those acknowledgments and many others emboldened others to come to the area to start wineries and build out infrastructure (hotels, restaurants, etc.) that attracted tourists and furthered investment in the area,’’ Baldwin said. “We went from a sleepy farm/cattle community to the forefront of New World wine regions with all the trappings.
The Central California wine region now has more than 200 wineries. In 2021, Baldwin said, the estate attracted nearly 100,000 visitors.
“Seeing our success attracted others who emulated our model and spurred investment across the board, driving tourism and ultimately infrastructure ranging from housing to leisure,’’ Baldwin said. “The population grew from 8,000 to now close to 30,000. , we divided the appellation into 12 sub appellations and Paso Robles came into its own. We are proud to be a part of that process.’’
That pride shows in each bottle of JUSTIN wine.
Photo: Justin Baldwin (JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery)